And if you dine at the counter you expose yourself to that feudal accounting system where you pay two separate bills: one for the drinks, furnished by a bartender, another for the food, served by a waiter. The kitchen does not seem to understand the importance of using salt to season food. The medium-rare burger sported the chew of a PowerBar. The frigid shrimp cocktail, doing its best impression of styrofoam packaging, did not taste like it came from an oceanic life form. But is this a steakhouse I’d ever send someone to, based on a visit this week? Absolutely not. The sizzling hunk of meat exhibits impressive tenderness, charred beefiness, and gentle dry-aged funk. Ryan: Does Peter Luger make a decent porterhouse? Yes, it does. The feeling of having traveled back in time right here in Williamsburg is an added plus.
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Sides are a head-scratching catalog that reflect the place’s German origins - a thick slice of bacon by itself on a plate and an undressed salad of unfailingly ripe tomatoes and onions, plus the usual creamed spinach and fried potatoes. At lunchtime, the burger is great, too, and a bargain. Founded in 1887, Luger serves but one steak: a magnificent prime porterhouse, which arrives sliced and sizzling, as the waiter spoons juices over it on a tilted serving plate as if he’s fallen in love with it.
Well, it will still be here when they are gone.
Robert: Located just across the Williamsburg Bridge from Manhattan, Peter Luger is damn good, even though some critics have recently made bank by disclaiming it. Spoiler: They don’t always agree! Old School: Peter Luger, Keens, or Gallagher’s Luger’s prime porterhouse, mid-meal. So what are the merits of Peter Luger in 2022, a century after it first opened? And where else should diners spend their disposable income as the price of a steak dinner continues to go up and it’s harder to come by reservations? Here are our two critics with the answers. Then Michelin’s anonymous inspectors quietly dropped it from the prestigious star last week. But New York Times critic Pete Wells burned it with a scorcher of a zero-star review in 2019, taking down just about every item on the menu, including the famed porterhouse. It was one of the few bastions of beef to hold a Michelin star since 2005, the year the Red Guide rose into town. Surely not a single other New York steakhouse has received as many accolades as Peter Luger, rated the best steakhouse by the populist Zagat guide for, like, 30 years in a row. This is where our critics Robert Sietsema and Ryan Sutton enter the fray: Here they identify some of the top old-school steakhouses with massive platters of hash browns, budget picks that show off more accessible (and often flavorful) cuts, new-school spots doing interesting things with dry-aging and saucing, and of course, the merits of Peter Luger. The more useful exercise is to debate the infinite nuances of our great red-meat city. Most diners likely realize there is no single “best” New York steakhouse, just as there is no such thing as the absolute best pizza or pastrami sandwich.
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